Abstract We recorded aerodynamic roughness and shear velocity along transects on and around mature crescent‐shaped barchan dunes of and height above the horizontal rock‐covered Qatar desert by fitting to the log‐law time‐averaged vertical velocity profiles acquired from triads of ultrasonic anemometers penetrating the inner turbulent boundary layer. Shear velocity first decreased, then recovered as air climbed on the dune, with a local maximum ahead of the crest as predicted by the Jackson and Hunt (1975, https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.49710143015 ) theory. Unlike flows over gentler bedforms without a slope discontinuity, an anomalous peak of shear velocity also arose on the dune centerline at the brink, which the theory attributed to skewness in the dune transect profile. The onset of aeolian transport produced a log‐law passing through the Bagnold (1941, https://doi.org/10.1007/978‐94‐009‐5682‐7 ) focal point. It was bracketed by noticeable hysteretic peaks in the correlation between wind speed and entrained sand flux. The dunes' rocky surroundings and topography produced an aerodynamic roughness at odds with the Nikuradse (1933, https://ntrs.nasa.gov/citations/19930093938 ) data for fully developed turbulent boundary layers. Large‐eddy numerical simulations illustrated the sensitivity of shear velocity to wide changes in aerodynamic roughness from desert floor to dune surface.